Four A.M. start time in Cusco. It’s a two-hour bus ride to our start point at Ollantaytambo.
It’s a great group of about twelve. There’s Luc, a dedicated mountain climber who really doesn’t need this kind of structured hike. Somewhere along the way he’s thrown in his lot with two Irish girls who have been traveling together long term. There’s three Canadians: twin brothers, and one of their girlfriends — I still don’t remember which one. A group of three Americans: a girl from Washington, her young brother, and another guy friend of hers.
The last couple, when asked to provide their nationality, announce themselves as “California,” because “it’s different” than the rest of the U.S. Perhaps to underscore their point, they have also brought 27 liters of water instead of the purification tablets we were told to bring at the prep meeting a couple days prior.
Early on Day 1; Salkantay is in the background.
The first day is all uphill, but it’s gradual, and the weather is favorable. Leaving the town behind, we hike along roads until we reach the beginning of the trail proper. The views along the way are fantastic, with deep valleys spreading out behind us, and the towering face of Salkantay being gradually revealed as our hike goes on.
Day 1 break time
Luc and the Irish are usually leading the way, and the Californians are bringing up the rear, partly due to the 27 liters of water they are carrying, partly due to the guy’s intermittent playing of pan flutes.
Salktanay grows ever closer
Better view of the mountain
Day 1 dog picture
Camp is not so bad, even if we are above 13,000 feet. Our tents are set up for us by the porters, and we’re actually in sort of a super-tent, which is to say kind of a wood structure covered in tarps, so the wind really isn’t bad, even if it’s quite cold outside. The toilets are fairly dreadful, and there aren’t really enough to go around anyway.
The stars at night at camp
DAY TWO
Very early start on day two. We’ve got a lot of ground to cover.
Pre-dawn camp, day 2.
Not quite morning yet, day 2
After breakfast we break camp and, true to form, I am almost left behind while taking a dump. I hustle to catch up with my group and we make the steep final push for the Salkantay pass. A lot of switchbacks, but given the relatively cool temps at high altitude, the sun is not too oppressive, and the path is not a difficult one. Before long I am standing at the highest elevation I’ve ever experienced: 15,092 feet. At the top we take plenty of time for pictures, and wander off the path a little to overlook a mountain lake.
Moving towards the pass
Moving out from camp, and I’m almost left behind in the toilet.
Stream rolling through the valley.
Climbers
Our guide on the final ascent
Views on the final ascent
Very near the top
The crew at the top of the Salkantay pass
Mountain lake near the pass
Looking out from the pass
As we make our way down the far side of the mountain, the climate begins to change, and the snow-capped stone peaks give way to vast mountainsides of almost tropical-looking vegetation. Somebody starts singing the Jurassic Park theme song and everybody confesses that they were thinking the same thing – the landscape is reminiscent of the approach to Isla Nublar in the original Jurassic Park movie. Over lunch we rack our brains trying to think of the other theme music from Jurassic Park. Some insist there is none. I am convinced they are wrong. Finally one of the Canadians realizes he has it as his wake up alarm music and everybody is relieved.
Heading down from the pass
Short plateau on the downward side
Considerably lower elevation now
Loading up the pack animals after lunch
The Californians miss lunch as they’ve been trailing again. My chocolate is starting to melt and I feel like it won’t make it to the end of the day, so I give it to them when they catch up. They seem grateful.
There’s a lot of downhill, and now I’m generally loping into the lead, although Luc is usually right up there with me.
Much lower still.
We end the day well under 10,000 feet at a camp by a river and some waterfalls. There’s some signs of civilization here – you can actually buy beer at the camp.
At camp, with one of our porters randomly in this picture